A decades-old power plant unexpectedly fuels a marine wonderland on the Waiʻanae Coast.
With my freediving fins and mask secured tightly in the bed of my Tacoma, I zip along the H-1 Freeway heading toward Waiʻanae. Once I pass Waipahu, the air feels noticeably hotter; the sun shines brighter. This is how I know I’m close to the West Side.
I spy the Kahe Power Plant welcoming me into Waiʻanae, its tall gray columns releasing steady streams of smoke into the air. The plant has long served as an informal marker for Kahe Point Beach Park, known to locals as the aptly named Electric Beach. Pulling off the highway, I pass over the area’s historical railroad tracks into the parking lot and slip into a stall.
Despite the early hour, I can see people are already on the beach: scuba divers carrying hefty tanks, spearfishers prepping gear, families scoping out a spot to set up camp for the day.
I make my way across the sand. During the winter, heavy swells pound the northwestern coasts, requiring a carefully timed entry through the shore break. But today, the water is calm and inviting, its visibility crystal clear.
With a few swift strokes of my fins, I enter a flourishing underwater playground. Tropical fish of all kinds swim around me— iridescent uhu (parrotfish) and striped manini (convict tang), the lemon-hued lau‘ipala (yellow tang) and the occasional humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a—Hawaiʻi’s state fish. An unexpected site for such activity, the Kahe Power Plant fuels the bustling ecosystem, pulling in sea water to cool the plant then discharging it back into the ocean through its outflow pipes, the resulting warm water a congregating point for the area’s marine life.
Here, sea turtles drift about lazily, riding the current from the pipe. Some mornings, spinner dolphins dance and twirl their way up along the coast. I keep an eye out for a submerged stone buddha, who sits peacefully on top of a rock. The small statue is easy to miss, if not for the fish pecking at his thin layer of algae.
I hold my breath to dive down even deeper and slowly scale along the coral reef to see if I can spot a shy octopus. An inquisitive hīnālea (cleaner wrasse) trails closely behind me, watching everything I do. I break away to swim through some nearby rock arches, testing my ability to stay underwater. Like so many who swim at Electric Beach, I wish to stay in this vibrant marine world for as long as possible.
Visit Electric Beach’s marine wonderland by heading west along Farrington Highway. Turn left into Kahe Point Beach Park. Exercise caution before entering the water and speak to the lifeguard stationed there. If in doubt, don’t go out.